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In 1915 And In 1917, Harper Bazaar Magazine Reported That The Garments Of The House Of Chanel Were The List Of Every Buyer For The Clothing Factories Of Europe. By that time, Chanel had opened a large dress shop at 31 rue Cambon, near the Htel Ritz, in Paris; among the clothes for sale were flannel blazers, straight line skirts of linen, sailor blouses, long sweaters made of jersey fabric, and skirt and jacket suits. Moreover, by 1920, Chanel had designed and presented a woman suit of clothes composed either of two garments or of three garments which allowed a woman to have a modern, feminine appearance, whilst being comfortable and practical to maintain; advocated as the uniform for afternoon and evening it became known as the Chanel Suit. To that end, the businessman Theophile Bader Chanel Bags Outlet (founder of Galeries Lafayette) introduced the venture capitalist Pierre Wertheimer to the couturire Coco Chanel. The notable example of such haute couture techniques is the woolen Chanel Suit a knee length skirt and a cardigan style jacket, trimmed and decorated with black embroidery and gold coloured buttons. In 1921, to complement the suit of clothes, Coco Chanel commissioned the perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a perfume for the House of Chanel, and he produced several echantillons, including the perfume No.5, named after the number of the sample Chanel liked Chanel Bags best. Col vans our wise, Chanel used traditionally masculine colours, such as grey and navy blue, to connote feminine boldness of character. Beyond comfort, Chanel clothes applied the suppleness of to allow the woman an active style of life. Originally, a flaon of No. 5 de Chanel was a gift to regular clients of Chanel yet, Chanel Handbags the popularity of the perfume prompted the House of Chanel to offer it for retail sale in 1922; in the event, No. 5 de Chanel became the signature fragrance of the couturire and of her house of couture. During the Second World War (1939 45), Coco Chanel closed shop at Maison Chanel leaving only jewellry and parfumerie for sale and moved the Htel Ritz Paris, where she resided with her boyfriend, Hans Gnther von Dincklage, a Nazi intelligence officer. In the course of those salons Coco Chanel befriended Arthur Capel, an English socialite and polo player friend of etienne Balsan; per the upper class social custom, Chanel also became mistress to Boy Capel. The House of Chanel (Chanel SA) originated in 1909, when Gabrielle Chanel opened a millinery shop at 160 Boulevard Malesherbes, the ground floor of the Parisian flat of the socialite and textile businessman etienne Balsan, of whom she was mistress. Nonetheless, despite the great business success of the Chanel couture and parfumer vans ie, the personal relations between the couturire and her capitalist partner deteriorated, because, the artiste Coco Chanel said that Pierre Wertheimer was unfairly exploiting he vans r talents as a fashion designer and as a businesswoman. Among fashion designers, wherein rag trade originality is in the dress making technique design, cut, and confection only the haute couture created by the avant garde Elsa Schiaparelli could compete with the clothes of Coco Chanel. Chanel revolutionized fashion high fashion (haute couture) and everyday fashion (pret a porter) by replacing structured silhouettes, based upon the corset and the bodice, with garments that were functional and flattering to the woman figure. In the 1920s, the simple line designs of Chanel couture made popular the fashions that were the opposite of the hourglass figure achieved by the fashions of the late 19th century the Belle epoque of France (ca. 1890 1914), an vans d the British Edwardian Era (ca. 1901 1919). Until that time the end of 19th century culture fashion for women was about the masculine display of conspicuous consumption, so, clothes makers and designers then had to produce practical and protective garments that would allow women the physical freedom required to do a man job in factory and field in order to supply the French war effort against Imperial Germany (1871 1918). In 1923, to explain the success of her clothes, Coco Chanel told Harper Bazaar magazine that design is the keynote of all true elegance. The Chanel product brands have been personified by fashion models and actresses, including Ins de la Fressange, Catherine Deneuve, Carole Bouquet, Vanessa Paradis, Nicole Kidman, Anna Mouglalis, Luca Hiriart, Hope Portocarrero, Audrey Tautou, Keira Knightley and Marilyn Monroe, who epitomize the independent, self confident Chanel Girl. Historically, the House of Chanel is most famous for the stylistically versatile black dress the perfume No. Occupied France Abounded With Rumours That Coco Chanel Was A Nazi Collaborator; Her Clandestine Identity Was Secret Agent 7124 Of The Abwehr, Code Named The clothes of the House of Chanel featured quilted fabric and leather trimmings; the quilted construction reinforces the fabric, the design and the finish, producing a garment that maintains its form and function while being worn. Hence, because the Balsan flat also was a salon for the French hunting and sporting elite, Chanel had opportunity to meet their demi mondaine mistresses, who, as such, were women of fashion, upon whom the rich men displayed their wealth as ornate clothes, jewelry, and hats; Coco Chanel thus could sell to them the hats she designed and made; she thus earned a living, independent of her financial sponsor, the socialite Balsan. In September 2012 a Paris court overturned a 2009 ruling and fined Chanel, saying the house had designed a vest that was a copy of a crochet design by the local knitwear company, World Tricot. Meanwhile, because of the Nazi occupation official anti Semitism, Pierre Wertheimer and family, had fled France to the US, in mid 1940. In September 1944, the Free French Purge Committee, the epuration, summoned Chanel for interrogation about her collaborationism, yet, without documentary evidence of or witnesses to her collaboration with the Nazis, and because of Churchill secret intervention in her behalf, the epuration released Coco Chanel from arrest as a traitor to France. Besides active military service, the enforced and increased production of coal made men scarce in the factories and in the fields, where they were replaced by women. In turn, Wertheimer, the majority capital stock owner of Parfums Chanel, saw his business interests threatened, and his commercial rights infringed, because he did not possess legally exclusive rights to the Chanel name. At War end, upon the Allied liberation of France, Chanel was arrested for having collaborated with the Nazis.